How many holidays, seasons and festivals have you celebrated by lighting a fire? We’re not talking about the Yule Log on TV, but the real thing—bright, hot, passionate fire. Pack your bags for Edinburgh and learn about fire’s role in the Beltane Fire Festival to welcome the longer days as we careen towards summer.
Drama-phobic folks need not worry. You don’t have to join the pageant, but can be content to watch along. We can’t guarantee that you won’t end up wanting to rip your clothes off and dance around the gigantic bonfire, however.
As is the nature of spring festivals celebrating abundance and earthly delights, the Beltane Fire Festival does include some folks who would prefer to experience the evening without clothes.
The ancient festival of Beltane marked the beginning of summer, and was held on the night before May 1. Because the changing of the seasons was a big deal to the pastoral Celtic peoples, the start of summer meant a time of light and growth to come. The celebration included baking Beltane bannocks, displaying fresh greenery and handfasting (which could be viewed as a temporary or permanent marriage, as the individuals preferred).
One of the most important parts of the Beltane celebration was the lighting of the Beltane fires. The bonfires represented the growing power of the sun through to midsummer. Cattle and farm animals were driven around the fires (not through, of course!), and brave humans would leap across the bonfires.
Don’t be disappointed, but the current festival doesn’t involve livestock. Run by the Beltane Fire Society, it’s a procession, beginning at the National Monument and winds counter-clockwise along a path. Leading the parade is the May Queen and the Green Man, and at its end, they light a huge bonfire. Dancing, food, drink and music ensue.
As is the nature of spring festivals celebrating abundance and earthly delights, the Beltane Fire Festival does include some folks who would prefer to experience the evening without clothes. If you are threatened by the temptation, duck into the bower with your sweetie and strengthen the bonds of your relationship by being handfasted. It won’t hurt.
Procession Story Line
You can sit back and watch the pageantry, or you can learn a little more about the story line to help you enjoy it thoroughly. The performers are enacting the ritual story of the lighting of the sacred Bel Fire. The procession moves around the hill, with the May Queen at its head, accompanied by her White Women, the Green Man and the processional drummers, whose distinctive beat urge the group towards summer.
The Green Man and May Queen are interrupted by different groups who help or hinder their progress toward the end of the procession—and their fate. Once the chaotic Reds have joined up and the Green Man has been killed and reborn, the procession is complete but not yet finished. All then retire to the Bower to dance, eat and commemorate the changing of the seasons as invited couples are handfasted by the May Queen.
Take some time to walk through the Old Town of Edinburgh, which includes the medieval fortress of Edinburgh Castle. In this part of town is the Royal Mile (a long street exactly one Scots mile long), featuring Reformation buildings, narrow closes, kirks, turrets and plenty of nooks and crannies. Compare that with the neoclassical New Town with its grand Georgian Terraces. Together these parts of Edinburgh were listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995.